Rwanda is a beautiful country with a fascinating culture and
history. Unfortunately, much of her
history was passed down as an oral tradition which was been part lost during
the colonial years. Some of that oral
tradition did get written down, however, and some of the more recent history
has been preserved in photos, artifacts and reconstructions which one can
experience in Rwanda’s museums. A few weekends past Anne and I went to visit the museum of the Palace of the King (Mwami)
in the town of Nyanza. There we saw
traditional grass homes like those which most Rwandans lived in before
Europeans came. The Mwami’s palace was a
very large version of the same sort of round, thatched hut which any other
person might have. He also had many
other buildings in his compound, including a house for his milkmaids (yes, they
had to be virgin to handle the royal milk) and his chief brew-taster (a man who
also had to be virgin). There is a
specific breed of cows which was also reserved for the Mwami, and which was
included in certain royal presentations and ceremonies. They are large, placid, a rich brown in
color, and have huge, hollow horns. (I
would love to try using one of their horn as a wind instrument, like a shofar.) The last Mwami had a more conventional
building for a palace, with rectangular floors, walls, and ceilings forming
rectangular rooms with rectangular doors and windows. Instead of an indoor hall connecting the
rooms, though, most of them opened to an outside portico (kind of like the
rooms at a Motel 6.) The interior
decoration was of interesting Rwandan-style geometric patterns, so the place
was not quite European in flavor.
Interestingly, the queen-mother (mother of the Mwami) had significant
power in the realm, despite the patriarchal trappings of the culture.
After leaving the Mwami’s Palace, we went to the
Ethnographic Museum. Well, we went there
after a break for lunch and soft-serve ice cream at Inzozi Inziza (Nice Dream)
which is the only place I know of in Rwanda which is famous for ice cream. We enjoyed both the lunch and the ice cream,
and neither were too expensive. We
arrived at the museum at 1:30pm, which didn’t leave us enough time to tour the
whole place, so we will have to go back soon.
Perhaps next time we will being another person or two.
During the drive out and back, I was admiring the scenery
with the eye of a photographer. A few
times, I had Anne stop the car so that I could photograph a particularly nice piece
of scenery. I also took some photos
outside at the museums: of the special cattle, of buildings and of Anne, etc. I
had to pay a few dollars to use a camera in the museum area, and was also told
that photos in the rooms of the more modern mansion were not allowed. The only camera I had available was the one on
my phone: a dual SIM, unlocked, BLU Advance 4.0 smartphone with Android version
4.22 that I got from Amazon for less than $100. The image quality is OK, but I have no zoom,
which I really want. The Olympus camera with 24x zoom that I bought used during
the summer has developed a problem which makes it impossible to charge the
battery by plugging in the camera. I
look forward to getting an external charger and spare battery so that I can
take some photos of the countryside, and of people as well. Perhaps I can figure out a way to insert
photos, or a link to photos, into this blog.
Finally, a word about Baha’i activities: A few weeks ago all of the Baha’i pioneers in
Rwanda were invited to meet together at the Baha’i center in Nyamirambo – a sector
within the city of Kigali. At that
meeting, I was inspired to launch a Junior Youth Empowerment program in
Muhanga, where we live. The planning and
execution of that project are moving forward, so I will have more to say next
time. Until then, “Umunsi mwiza!” (“Have
a nice day!”)
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